The Vinters Rooms

The Vaults, Leith

visited 22/01/10

The Vintners Rooms is one of those venerable Edinburgh restaurants that I have never been too (partly because it's a) expensive and b) in Leith so that's an extra £20 for taxis). But 2 for 1 conquers all.

Things got off to a good start when I realised I'd booked the wrong Thursday. When I called to change it they said we could eat in the bar as they had a party, or they offered us a Friday which is not a normal Listcard night. Friday, it was.

The bar is a former wine warehouse and the dining area is the sale room--an absolutely perfect mid-eighteenth-century room whose original plasterwork has miraculously survived and is a wonderful place for dinner. The bar area is good too but a bit overlit and with a lot of empty bookshelves, which I found unnerving.

We were celebrating a birthday so kicked off in the bar with a couple of glasses of some good prosecco, then into the restaurant for a slightly pointless amuse-bouche of a watery sweet potato soup. The menu is polarised--the printed offerings are quite strictly plain and protein-based: four choices labelled “lamb”, “pork”, “cod” etc, in a way that would put any errant vegetarians in their place. But the specials are oddly adventurous: we were offered the mysterious “duck pie”. Anyway, it all looked inviting, so we went for starters of scallops (usual style with pancetta) and rabbit. This latter (my choice and another special) came with a perfect jus, and a rather odd risotto flavoured with tarragon. The rabbit was faultless but the risotto either had too much tarragon, or the tarragon was fighting the meaty jus, or (as I suspect) there was some not-quite-cooked through vermouth—I couldn’t tell what it was but there was a note of something a bit alien about it. My companion’s scallops were fine.

Next I had a lamb shank—-delicious, melting and in a nice, light gravy. It came with polenta (which I don’t actually like much but it accompanied other dishes anyway so their was no escape) and a small amount of red cabbage (I felt it needed something green to lift it). All fine, but quite expensive at £26 for such a cheap cut of meat. My more adventurous companion hazarded the duck pie which was a triumph. The lightest pastry I’ve ever had, with shredded duck, spinach, and a root vegetable puree (I only had a mouthful and the overall effect was so great I didn’t think about the details). With all this we had a Montrachet which was worth every bit of its £40 price tag.

Then we had crème brulee—with (finally!) no intrusive flavourings that often get in the way of the classic dessert. A perfect example of its kind.

The Vintners Rooms is stylish, the service is great and the wine list is thoughtful. It is quite expensive for what it offers—more expensive than equally accomplished and more imaginative places. But I would be happy to go again to eat some classic dishes in that wonderful room.