Edinburgh
visited 14/8/12
It’s easy to overlook hotel restaurants in Edinburgh, but a
friend was staying here on business so I joined her for dinner. The Bonham is in a Victorian townhouse in
the West End, gently modernised. The
wood-panelled dining room is well-lit to dispel the Victorian oppressiveness
that some of these buildings can have, and a table by the open window was a
lovely, airy space for dinner.
There’s a slightly predictable menu (halibut, venison, lamb,
a veggie option) but a surprisingly interesting prix fixe which I found more
inviting. I had a very juicy,
well-cooked piece of mackerel nicely contrasted with some shredded kohlrabi and
with a dollop of gooseberry puree (which I could have had a little tarter, as the
purpose of this famous partnership is to cut through the oil of the fish, but
no real complaints.) Then I had some of
the lightest gnocchi ever, with roasted cherry tomatoes and basil—a perfect
combination perfectly cooked. I also got a forkful of my friend’s confit of
duck which was light and crispy and with a great flavour. We blew the money we had saved by ordering
off the prix fixe menu on a really good albarinõ. I wish all restaurants had wines like this—really well balanced
acidity and with a bit of substance but not overloaded with alcohol.
After these nicely balanced dishes with thoughtful flavours
and textures we were ready for pudding.
I had crème brûlée flavoured
with tonka bean, which is a kind of slightly spicier vanilla and BANNED in the
USA! I am still alive though. The crème was great—rich but light and with
perfect caramel. Good coffee too.
So everything was great and I will come back and try the
main menu at some point.
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