Wednesday, 15 August 2012

Restaurant at the Bonham

Drumsheugh Gardens

visited 14/8/12

It’s easy to overlook hotel restaurants in Edinburgh, but a friend was staying here on business so I joined her for dinner.  The Bonham is in a Victorian townhouse in the West End, gently modernised.  The wood-panelled dining room is well-lit to dispel the Victorian oppressiveness that some of these buildings can have, and a table by the open window was a lovely, airy space for dinner.

There’s a slightly predictable menu (halibut, venison, lamb, a veggie option) but a surprisingly interesting prix fixe which I found more inviting.  I had a very juicy, well-cooked piece of mackerel nicely contrasted with some shredded kohlrabi and with a dollop of gooseberry puree (which I could have had a little tarter, as the purpose of this famous partnership is to cut through the oil of the fish, but no real complaints.)  Then I had some of the lightest gnocchi ever, with roasted cherry tomatoes and basil—a perfect combination perfectly cooked. I also got a forkful of my friend’s confit of duck which was light and crispy and with a great flavour.   We blew the money we had saved by ordering off the prix fixe menu on a really good albarinõ.  I wish all restaurants had wines like this—really well balanced acidity and with a bit of substance but not overloaded with alcohol. 

After these nicely balanced dishes with thoughtful flavours and textures we were ready for pudding.  I had crème  brûlée flavoured with tonka bean, which is a kind of slightly spicier vanilla and BANNED in the USA!   I am still alive though.  The crème was great—rich but light and with perfect caramel.  Good coffee too.

So everything was great and I will come back and try the main menu at some point.

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